Landscapes

I found the draft for Day 12 so here it is! Day 12: Sarria to Portomarin – 22.4 km, 8.5 hours What a day! I’m exhausted and despite my feet, calves and ankles talking to me…loudly…I thoroughly I enjoyed the day. So much that, at about 12 km I realized I had to stop dilly dallying and get a move on…but I didn’t lol! The landscape between Sarria and Portomarin is sooo beautiful. It’s one little village after another. And it’s ne farm after another. Small scale farming…cattle, pigs, corn…and gardens gardens gardens! So many breathtaking views and photo ops! (Hence the dilly dallying). The trees were raining nuts! Chestnuts and walnuts in abundance. I passed apple trees, their branches heavy with fruit ready to drop, and stone walls, and forest path after forest path which opened into expansive green fields. I’m fascinated by the slate roofs…so heavy! And the stone buildings – still standing after hundreds of years! At one point I walked by a stone stable where an older gentleman, an abuelo (grandfather) came around the corner with a young boy in a stroller. The abuelo asked me if I was going to Santiago. When I replied yes he handed me a freshly carved walking stick. I said I couldn’t take it, but he insisted, so I received it. He then reached into his pocket and pulled out a handful of walnuts and gave them to me…he must have just harvested them. I took them and he kissed both cheeks and asked me to say a prayer for him, his wife and his grandson. I promised that I would, and I did. As I walked away I began to cry, I was so moved by his generosity and support. Shortly after I came upon a table filled with food and a sign that said it was by donation for pilgrims. I can’t describe the feeling I had as I approached the table to find homemade cheese, honey, apples, membrillo (jam pate), donuts, roasted chestnuts, walnuts and much more ALL products of that little farm. I invited other pilgrims walking by to enjoy. The farmer, seeing a group of people at his table, came over and proudly informed us that all the products were indeed from his farm. There were bees buzzing around the honey and sweets…the very same bees that made that honey!! What a blessing! And of course, another cry as I walked away. So much joy found in so such simplicity. I realized how walking through the countryside and the abundance of the harvest made me aware of how very very grateful I and for where I live. My soul is being nourished on this path and I will return home to a place that shares the beauty and values as I witness and experience on the Camino. A short walk later, I came across an abuela (grandmother) sitting at a table in her courtyard with tortilla espanola, almond tart, and fruit and orange and lemon water and food and more food she had made and was offering to the pilgrims for a donation. I was not hungry but filled my water bottle, gave a donation and walked on with a soul smile. I stopped in Barbadelo at a lovely albergue with a gorgeous expansive view and…a swimming pool! Jay-Z’ “Empire State of Mind” featuring Alicia Keys was playing on the radio so I had a little dance in the shop while sipping on zumo de naranja natural (freshly squeezed orange juice). I bought myself a little gift of handmade earrings made in Galicia with the Celtic triple spiral…the triskele on them…also sometimes called the triskelion. Read about the meaning here: http://www.whats-your-sign.com/celtic-symbol-for-trinity On the final stretch of the day I spotted a young woman with what looked like a solar panel affixed to her pack. I picked up my pace to catch up with to inquire. She a lovely woman named Emily from Boulder, Colorado. It was indeed a solar panel and she was kind enough to show me the panel and the battery pack – super cool! It was her dad who suggested she use it. I told her to tell her dad he was cool! We arrived on Portomarin, located my backpack and checked into a lively albergue filled with peregrinos cooking dinner and eating and laughing. But around 10 lights were out and all was quiet. Today was as much about the rural landscape as it was my inner landscape. Appreciating one while cultivating the other. Both spacious, abundant and open, and filled with beauty and generosity and love. Tomorrow is another day of miracles and wonder. Let’s see what’s in store shall we? 🙂 Xo Ishwari Mo’Starr

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