Convergence

Day 16: O’Pedrouzo to Santiago – 18 or 20 km, 6.5 hours As I set out for Santiago I retraced my steps from last night when I walked right past town. There was a different energy about. There was movement. Where there were few people on the path until now, there were many more and many new faces. There was a convergence happening, creating a kinetic energy and a palpable sense of excitement. Other Camino routes intersected here. The weaving of experiences and paths creating a new tapestry of pilgrims and people moving faster as we approached the city of Santiago. I started the day off alone and met up with two Spanish guys from Boente hostel. After some conversation I excused myself to take alone time, taking my mala in hand and began to chant silently, taking in the surroundings and savouring the last day of this journey. I left the albergue before them but hoped to see Nina and Christina again. In the meantime I continued to walk on my own until I came across a restaurant and decided to stop for breakfast. I had a jar of delicious silky yet thick locally made yoghurt which I mixed with honey and drank from the bottle. There were three Camino cats…kittens…meowing for food. I had enough yogurt and so poured some into the lid and put it down for them they loved it! Then they started licking the bottle, tongues working hard, stretching further and getting yogurt on ears and whiskers. I made a video and will see if I can figure out how to upload it. Gill arrived, a woman I had met the night before and who lives on a sister island. I was glad to see her. And just as I prepared to leave, Nina and Christina arrived – yay! I knew we would catch up later. As I walked alone, a realization arose – that I miss my family AND I don’t need anything to be different. I smiled. And then precious Joel came to mind and heart. My love, friend, lover, co-adventurer and co-creator. An overwhelming feeling of gratitude, love and light overcame me. I got out Pine Cone and began to play it with a smile, knowing that Joel would appreciate it. I came upon eucalyptus forest after eucalyptus forest. Young trees and old. Bark peeling to reveal a smooth white skin beneath. They reminded me of arbutus and I felt at home. I stopped to pick up a leaf and a small branch which had broken off one of the trees. I picked up pieces of bark and carried them with me. They would become paper as I wrote notes or quotes or thoughts which arose as I walked. Using a marker I had found along the way, I wrote on them and then carried or left the notes in random spots along the way. I held a eucalyptus leaf in my hand, lifting it to my nose to smell it regularly. The smell bringing me back to the present moment. And to the moment. And into the moment over and over again. Present. I knew I was close to Santiago when I passed the airport and then came to a junction where the Camino met the highway. A rude awakening for my nervous system. I took a moment to self-regulate by inhaling and telling myself that I was safe and continued on my Camino. The path veered away from the road and somewhere along the way there was a creek with a memorial and altar. Knitted pieces, shoes, photos and prayers hung from trees. Items people left behind from their Camino sprinkled here and there. I stopped to explore the space, left a note I had been carrying and moved on. The walk into town seemed long. Perhaps it was the anticipation or excitement of arriving but it was the longest 8 or so km of my Camino. I arrived at a monument on a hill with a tiny church. I made an altar at the monument, lit two candles in the tiny church and proceeded down hill towards Santiago with Maria and Antonio, a Spanish couple who had been on the same schedule as me for a few days. We spotted the cathedral across a field. Not far now – or so I thought lol! Up and down and around we walked, also meeting up with a couple from Brazil who I sat beside at dinner the night before. One couple ahead of me and one behind, I was being shepherded into Santiago. On the final approach into the city we turned a corner and like that there was traffic and fast cars. Right about then a cramp seized my right calf making it difficult to walk. I began to limp and wondered why now…oh I could think of a few reasons… I felt a bit discouraged, stopping to stretch while my shepherds moved further and further into the distance. I had paused on a bridge to appreciate the river below when I turned to the right and behold! Before me were the smiling faces of Nina and Christina! Double hurray!! Together we completed the pilgrimage into Santiago making our way first to the cathedral square where other pilgrims were gathered, then to pilgrim office and completed with a visit to the Cathedral of Santiago del Compostela! We went back to the plaza to see if any of our Camino Amigos had arrived and came upon a group of five young women from Oregon and friends from Brazil. We hugged and kissed, high-fived and took a few photos before saying our good byes and making our ways to our respective accommodations. I set out to find my hotel, making my way through the maze of streets that radiated outward from the cathedral. It was very close yet located in a quiet area. I checked into my funky little hotel, unpacked, took a bath and rested. Sometime after 8 pm the sisters and I met up for a wonderful meal sharing incredibly good food, warm and interesting conversation. We hugged good night and retired to our hotel rooms for much needed rest. I slipped into my comfy white sheeted duvet covered bed and dozed off before I was able to do my nightly gratitude ritual. Buenas noches